02 September 2020-10 September 2020
Introduction
While the timing isn’t ideal for me…week three of UofL’s Fall semester and prep-week for my University of Maryland course…I’ve decided to begin a virtual challenge to run/walk the entire length of Hadrian’s Wall—90 miles—in 9 days. The challenge begins in the east at Wallsend and stretches to the west coast, ending at Bowness-on-Solway.
Hadrian’s Wall was built to divide the Roman Empire from the barbarians of the north. Construction began in AD 122. The intention was to build a gate every mile—know as Mile Castles. There are also forts built along the wall to house the Roman soldiers. The wall was an active border, which meant there were trading and customs agents at the gates and forts. The wall deterred barbarians while also providing a vibrant community in many places across northern Britain for nearly 300 years. Today, only parts of the wall and several forts still remain.
Why Hadrian’s Wall? For me, it’s symbolic. We hope to hike the length of Hadrian’s Wall with our boys for our 30th anniversary (in 2022). It’s also one of the first places we visited on our 2015 summer adventure to the United Kingdom. We were headed to Edinburgh, so we only had time to visit the Birdoswald Roman Fort. The minute we pulled in, we knew we wanted to do the entire wall at some point.
Why the challenge? Well, why not? For me, it’s a combination of a physical and mental challenge. It’s a challenge of balance. I have struggled with balance my whole life. I squander time and opportunities because I wait until the last minute to do things. I am a procrastinator. But the opposite is also true—I jam pack my life, my days, with over commitments, projects, and activities. Committing to this challenge is going to force me back into a full plate. That’s my mental game. My physical game is a challenge too. 10 miles a day is just under double what my daily average is now. When I spend so much of my time in front of a computer, I need something to force me to get up and get outside. Come rain or shine, heat or cold (no chance of that in KY), I will log all of these miles outside.
In my yoga practice, I like to dedicate my practice and meditation to someone or something. I’ve decided to do the same each day of my challenge. It’s a way to show gratitude or to ask for energy, healing, or guidance for someone else. I am not always magnanimous in my practice. Some days I need it for myself, but there are days when I am more motivated to do it for someone or something else.
As my reward for making my daily challenge, I will seal my dedication with a glass of scotch from one of my personal favorite distilleries. I love a Speyside scotch. Primarily because its smokiness is limited. Speyside, in my experience, is the scotch that relies on the barrel for finishing the flavor. As a bourbon girl, I have a deep appreciation for the barrel. The Balvenie is located between Inverness and Aberdeen on the northwest edge of the highlands. We visited Loch Kinord on our trip and I was new to scotch then or we would have made the short 1-hour trip to the distillery. When we hike the wall, The Balvenie Distillery will be our reward.
Until then, I reward myself with my favorite bottle of The Balvenie Doublewood 12. It is a single malt whisky that is aged 12 years in ex-bourbon America oak casks and then moved to a sherry cask to “finish” it for 9 months. It is my favorite by far—but I’ll drink anything from The Balvenie.
Day 1-Wednesday-02 September 2020
Distance: 10.58
Route: Wallsend to Newburn
The challenge begins in Wallsend along what is known as Hadrian’s Wall Path. The challenge route goes due west along the River Tyne. The virtual challenge differs slightly from the true hiking path of Hadrian’s Wall. To be accurate, I am following the virtual trail, which is 90 miles versus the 84 miles of the true trail—but I will include (for the purpose of my future trip planning) to include details of the true path and the virtual route.*
The true trailhead is Segedunum, the site of a former fort and garrison. The name is said to have been derived from the Celtic word ‘sego’ meaning strength and ‘dunum’ meaning fortified place. Originally, the wall ended at Newcastle on Tyne but it was extended the additional 4 miles after the wall was completed. One theory is for it to include a pivotal crossing point over the River Tyne. Either way, this portion of the wall was only a wall and did not include a value, a turf wall to accompany the stone one. With the extension of the wall, the wall ended at Wallsend—obviously. Today, Segedunum is a large excavated ruin site including a reconstructed Roman bath.
Just under 5 miles into the route, we end up in Newcastle upon Tyne (the old end of the wall). It is also the former location of the Pons Aelius, ‘Aelian Bridge.’ The name comes from Hadrian’s family name Aelius, and scholars suggest that this may mean that Hadrian himself had come to this site.
Beyond Newcastle, the route takes us toward Benwell. The virtual route does not deviate from the true path. When we hike it, we will visit Benwell and visit the ruins of a Roman temple. Beside the temple is the only remaining stone causeway that crossed the Vallum, the turf wall. The virtual route also bypasses Denton Hall Turret. The turret is part of a 65 meter stretch of remaining wall with an excavated square turret.
My distance today leaves off at the village of Newburn.
Dedication: Me
I dedicate day one to me. Just me.
I often hashtag some social media posts about running as #runningformyself #runningfrommyself. I have a love/hate relationship with running. I am generally glad I did it once it is done. But I can piss and moan about it up until my foot hits the pavement. So, on days I force myself, I find I am particularly gratified by my efforts. Day one, when my energy and enthusiasm is high, is the day I need to do it for myself.
For whatever reason, women often say they are doing something or have achieved something because of someone else. Women will say that they workout and lose weight to be healthy for their kids. Which I have no doubt is true. Sometimes students, in their introductions, will say they are getting an education to get a better job to give their children a better life. Female actresses accept awards and say “This is for my mom.” And, I don’t doubt or criticize any of these women. I just hope the sentiments are genuine.
When I was considering what to put on the dedication page of my dissertation, I SERIOUSLY considered just writing “The work presented here is dedicated to: me.” Seriously. In the end, I knew someone else deserved the dedication.
I wonder how often women are invited to do something just for themselves. What space is created to allow women to escape the shame of being labeled selfish if they do something for themselves. Exercise/gym time is one of the things that sociologist have examined and determined that busy women drop the activities that they do for themselves when their time is limited. Men, for whatever reason, maintain their “me” time above all of the things.
I am hyper-aware of instances where women say they are doing something for others. I am not sure they even know they are doing it. And on some level, women’s psyche motivates them to complete something when they are doing it for another. Altruism. Generosity, Selflessness. Volunteerism. All of these are more associated with women than men. According to the website Pricenomics, women are 30% more likely to volunteer than men. The site goes on to explain some theories, but I think the important thing here is to recognize that women are often cast in this gender role. The result can be that women internalize the importance of others over self. That’s lovely, isn’t it?
Not so much. This gendering allows men to continue to serve themselves while women are asked to serve others. Hello, my name is Marmie (A little jab at Little Women), and I am asking my daughters to take their entire Christmas meal and give it to a poor family—on Christmas morning with no warning. Merry Christmas, my little women, you get a lesson in altruism and you should smile and give it away with a loving heart. If you grumble, you’ll be shamed by the reader!
Women are repeatedly signaled to do things for others and rarely allowed to do for themselves without stealing the time. And when they steal the time, the work and responsibilities pile up because women have repeatedly won the right to do more, but they’ve yet to win the right to do less. So, who exactly are they stealing the time from?
But Day One, it’s for me.
I spent part of the distance listening to my favorite playlist. Then I listened to an audiobook. As I came close to the 10 mile daily goal, I deliberately kept going.
Call it stealing time… for me.
Day 2-Thursday-03 September 2020
Distance: 7.84
Route: Newburn to Harlow Hill
This stretch of the route passes by Heddon-on-the-Wall. This is the longest and most well-preserved portion of Hadrian’s Wall, still existing in its original depth, that has been excavated so far. During different stages of excavation, evidence of common use have been discovered. A corn drying kiln was revealed in one part of the wall and artifacts remain at various depths that reveal the life of the people who lived along both sides.
The true route and the virtual one take us along the military road called Military Road. (Lol) The road passes by Vindobala Fortress.
The excavation of Vindobala has revealed several things of interest. A hypocaust was discovered below what is believed to be a headquarters building. A hypocaust is a room beneath the floor that held wood fired furnace. There were also a series of brick pipes built into the walls to disperse heat through the walls and not just the floor. If you visit the Baths of Diocletian in Rome, there is a large display about the inner workings of the hypocaust.
Vindobala is also the site of temple ruins, Rudchester Mythraeum. Scholars believe that the temple was to honor Mythras, the Roman god and deity for Mythraism. I don’t know much about the Mysteries other than the term refers to the various religious cults that existed in Ancient Rome. In Pompeii, you can visit the Villa of the Mysteries which has some of the most well-preserved murals because of the volcanic ash that covered the city after Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD. The temple here along Hadrian’s Wall is not open for visitors but the fortress excavation area is.
The end of today’s route leaves me near Harlow Hill.
Dedication: To Jason
Day 2 was harder than I expected it to be. (Note the short distance today) Every time I have started some new exercise or physical adventure, Jason has always told me that day two is harder than day one. He’s always been so encouraging of any crazy idea I have had. And, we do many of these adventures together. He and I were planning to do this Hadrian’s Wall challenge together but life had other plans. Because we are planning a move in the near future, and Covid happened and delayed some plans, Jason had to schedule his shoulder surgery and recovery during the challenge.
Years of being in the military, and playing softball, has resulted in a labral tear, scar tissue, bone spurs, and a separated rotator cuff. So he had surgery and is recovering really well with the help of a great physical therapist. Getting old sucks. And the things that came easy to us are now challenging. Fortunately, despite our best efforts to ruin ourselves when we were young, we both enjoy good health: physical, mental, spiritual, and emotional.
So, he is not doing the challenge with me, but he is encouraging me the whole way. And, he’s drinking the Balvenie.
Day 3-Friday-04 September 2020
Distance: 10.1
Route: Harlow Hill to Chollerford
This is supposed to be one of the least taxing portions of the Wall trail. Open landscape with very little gradient. At this point you lose sight of the wall, apparently. It’s interesting to think about why and where the wall disappears. In many places, the wall was not preserved but rather repurposed. It would be nearly impossible to monitor the wall to keep it from being destroyed, and it wasn’t declared a World Heritage site until 1987. So, much of the wall is missing and some of it has been taken over by the natural landscape and has not been excavated.
Nearly all of today’s route will be just walking and relaxing until we come to the end as we approach Chester’s Fort.
Planetrees is part of the wall that reveals a change of plans for the Romans. Scholars believe it is because the previous depth of the wall, 10 Roman feet, was changed to 8 in order to speed up the construction. Planetrees is named for a farm not farm from this point in the wall. Several artifacts have been found on the farm including stone splitting equipment.
This part of the route also passes by an excavation site for Brunton Turret. The turret site is interesting for several reasons. For one, this is the other place, just after Plantrees, where the width of the wall changes. It is also interesting to note that within the turret is an altar. I always tend to think of the Romans as gladiators and senate men, and it is easy to forget that this was also a very religious culture. Altar and symbols were found in nearly every Roman home. To find one here, in a turret, suggests that the men spent many long hours here on watch along the wall.
From this direction, East to West, we come upon the first of several sites relating to Chester’s. Today’s route bring us to what is known as Chester’s Bridge Abutment. The bridge plays a large part of the history of Hadrian’s Wall. This virtual rendering of the bridge helps us understand the massive importance of Hadrian’s Wall. This rendering, known as “first bridge,” is believed to have been built, in several phase, somewhere between 120 and 140 AD and had the single purpose of…well, of being the wall. It allowed for foot travel along the top of the bridge.
This bridge was demolished to make way for a road bridge built in 160 AD. Known as the “second bridge,” this bridge served as a road as well as a footpath. Archeologists believe this bridge was built to model other Roman bridges of the same size and included parapets and columns that would have held statuary. It was meant to show the power and force of the Roman Empire, and perhaps more importantly, to show the power of the Emperor. Historians believe this version of the wall remained in use until 500 AD or so.
After that, the bridge was dismantled in 670 AD and the stone was used for St. Wilfrid’s Church in Hexham. What remains are just some more stones but it was once part of a ten stone piers holding up a timber bridge built in the third century.
This last picture is again of Brunton Turret, but more for the scenery behind the site. Walking the Wall for all of these treasured locations is one thing, but the pleasure of the walk itself is the huge draw for me. These sites and the history give purpose to the walk. The scenery and landscape give the pleasure.
Today’s route leaves me at Chollerford.
Dedication: To my Army family—all over the world.
We are a unique breed of people. I don’t think anyone was “born to serve” in the military. And most spouses, who do not serve, never fully understand the commitment it takes to marry into the military. Many military families don’t make it to the end, or they don’t make it after it’s over. People say to me “I don’t know how you did it” when they think of all the years of moving around and of long deployments and of raising two boys practically as a single-parent. My response is always “You just do it.”
As I was reading about the altar in the Brunton Turret, I was thinking of how you have to make a place a home—about how you have to continue on with your traditions and your spirituality—wherever you are in the world. The altar was a way of connecting to their family and their traditions and their religion. The soldiers in that turret probably spent many long, possibly lonely, hours in there. It reminds me of the days and days that Jason had to spend in a tank in the first days of the Gulf War. There were other men in there too, but I know he was lonely. I think about Soldiers on guard duty, or back in the old days of CQ duty, who spent long days and nights in their uniform that likely smelled of sweat and diesel fuel. Back before iPhones and internet, their comfort was a can of Copenhagen, a can of Coke, and a deck of cards.
Preserving and performing the ritual acts of tradition was always something we did as an Army family. Many military families fall apart or service members get out because being away from the familiar things of home and extended family are too much. This happens frequently with military couples who are from the same place. So, they get out and move back to their hometown and live their life. Because, as lonely as the Soldier is who is pulling guard duty at the motorpool, there is someone else who is just as lonely on the other end. Shout out to my Army family who build an altar—wherever they go—so they can keep it together. Or, loose it completely….
Day 4-Saturday-05 September 2020
Distance: 11.4
Route: Chollerford to Winshields Wall
The route from Chollerford leads straight to Chester’s Roman Fort. Today’s distance will cover the fort, a temple, and two points on the wall.
It’s not just the points along the wall that make this portion interesting. This is also one of the craggiest portions of the route. Beyond the fort and the temple, it is a long walk with amazing views—purportedly. This is going to be a good hike today. And just like the actual route, today was a long and lengthy day for me.
The Chester’s Roman Fort is a major site along the wall trail. Evidence of the different stages of prosperity and conflict have been found at this site. Scholars believe that there was a structured and generous life established both inside and outside of the fort after the late 160s AD. The years between 180 and 250 AD were prosperous and the life outside the walls, known as the vicus, reached its expansive size. Soldiers were well-paid and enjoyed a rich and full life of raising families here at Chester’s.
The site has been excavated since the early 19th century and there are many things to see. For us, given Jason’s connection to the US Cavalry, we’d spend the time visiting the cavalry fort. Scholars believe there were over 500 roman cavalry stationed at this fort, built in 124 AD. I the 2nd and 3rd centuries, there is evidence that the fort was again expanded to accommodate the Asturians, a northern Spanish culture, with a close connection to the Roman cavalry. Unfortunately, after 250 AD, external conflicts and warring factions made life outside the walls particularly dangerous and the virus was all but deserted by the 3rd century.
Beyond that century, life at Chester’s was more work than life and soldiers were paid much less and often were paid in-kind rather than with coin. With no coin, no merchants or tradesman resettled outside the fort. Excavations suggest that the number of cavalry soldiers did not decrease. But life would never be as glorious and settled as it once was. In fact, by the 5th century the fort was deserted and there seems to be no evidence of whether the soldiers were relocated elsewhere or if they simply left the army to fend for themselves.
Chester’s is a popular place for tourists to visit this portion of the wall because there is ample parking, lots of things to see, including a bath house, and a tearoom. Since my crew will be more interested in the pub, I doubt I will have the chance for tea. But, I am hoping for some time at the bath house remains.
Heading west from Chester’s, we hike for nearly three miles before coming to the Temple of Mithras. Mithras was a god who was revered for his eternal war on evil. The legend is that Mithras killed a bull, to release its vitality to fight evil for mankind, in a small cave which resulted in the iconography of a man killing a bull. The remains of the temple here are the most complete remains of any excavated temple along Hardian’s Wall.
Leaving the temple ruins is purportedly on the most beautiful views. The route skirts the southern part of Northumberland National Park. As the route heads into Winshields Wall, the landscape gets more rough. It passes through Sewingshields Wall and Sycamore Gap–where a tree made famous by the film, Robin Hood Prince of Theives (the Kevin Costner version), stands. It is said to be the most frequently photographed tree in the UK.
This part of the wall, Winshields, is situated at the highest elevation of the entire length of Hadrian’s Wall. This is a spot that is supposed to offer some of the most spectacular views. So, the hike to get here is a good trek. The location is only reachable by foot, so it gets less visitors than popular sites like Chesters. This, I hope, will be a nice end to a long day.
Today was also my longest day yet on this virtual route.
Dedication: Julie and Sandy
I’ve had many long hauls. Most recently I slugged my way through a dissertation to finish my PhD. I am extremely proud of myself for finishing. Was it mind-numbingly, brilliant writing—no. But, it was an exercise in persistence as much as anything else. And there were two people who persisted with me, Julie and Sandy.
I dedicate today to these two amazing humans. They’ve always been my cheering squad. They remain my cheering squad. They support every ridiculous idea I have. They are the voice of encouragement, tenacity, and inspiration even when I doubt myself.
Sandy can be, even in her moments of greatest support, harshly realistic. But there is always an undertone of support for whatever I say I am going to do. I often wonder if she overly cautions me… because she knows that if I say it, I am going to do it. So her encouragement is in response to the realization that I am going to do it anyway—so she might as well point out the pitfalls and speed bumps.
Julie is my rational twin. I love her advice because it is the advice I would give myself. She is never dramatic and always practical. That’s me too. She always takes the tone of “well, if you’re going to do it, let’s think this through.”
I love them both. I can never thank them enough. A dedication doesn’t seem like a big thing, but what do you do for two women who rarely need my support but deserve all of my thanks and gratitude. These two are my squad. There may be just three of us, but we could conquer the world.
Day 5-Sunday-06 September 2020
Distance: 10.96
Route: Winshields Wall to Birdoswald Roman Fort
The route from Winshields skirts the southern edge of Northumberland National Park. It’s just over 5 miles this morning to Walltown Crags. The crags are supposed to be one of the best views. According to the English Heritage site website:
“This is one of the finest places to see Hadrian’s Wall, where it snakes and dives through dramatic countryside along the crags of the Whin Sill. Not only is the Wall itself especially well preserved here, but it also shows how the soldiers who built it coped with the presence of large outcrops of natural rock—sometimes incorporating it into the Wall, and sometimes almost butting up against it.”
I am really looking forward to this part of the route. As for the virtual route—and the one I am doing at present—I am not feeling so great about. Yesterday was a long day. And I am waiting on some bloodwork to come back from my doctor. Y white blood cells have been too low for several months and, while I am not worried, I am concerned that it may end up being something that postpones our move to Italy. But, as it turns out, I hit the cemetery (my favorite walking location) and I had a renewed energy.
Back on the virtual trail, from Walltown, it is less than a mile to the Roman Army Museum where we will, of course, need to spend a bit of time.The army museum is part of the Vindolanda Trust, a collection of various sites and museums. We could visit the Vindolanda site ( it would have been yesterday near Sycamore Gap) but this is a hiking trip! Unless the guys change their mind, and we choose to NOT relax, we can arrange to visit the site on day four.
The Roman Army Museum is an extensive museum covering the general history of the Roman army to the daily life of soldiers. The video/movies are supposed to be very well done. I know Jason will want to inspect everything, but I plan to find a nice spot to stretch out while the guys do the museum.
Leaving the museum, the route takes us out of the park and we pass Poltross Burn Milecastle. The mile castle marks the start of a two mile stretch of wall. This is the longest stretch of wall that remains in-tact. It stretches to Birdoswald Roman Fort.
The walk to get to the fort is a beautiful, peaceful one. We visited Birdoswald Fort in 2015.
It was the first, and only, trip to Hadrian’s Wall. It hooked us, can you tell?
Today’s portion was a long one. It was nearly 11 miles. When we hike Hadrian’s, it will be a long day with a stop at the Roman Army Museum and the long, peaceful strolls. We know from our trip there before, that there is a lovely, perfect English village near here. Or are there two? I can’t remember. But with this view, and a long day, we’ll definitely plan to stay the night here and enjoy some time off our feet…with a pint…and a dram.
Dedication: To Dylan
It’s a strange thing. Or is it? To be the mother of two boys and to have two totally different children. Mothers of the world will step up to argue with me: “All my children are different. All my children are special.” Yeah, yeah. Sit down.
I am not saying that there isn’t something unique about every person on the planet. What I am saying is that it is a strange thing to come to know your children as individuals and to realize they are so completely different from one another.
Dylan has a restlessness. That is something we share. He is a Pisces. Swim fishy, swim. He is constantly changing direction. And, he is also frequently caught in the current. One minute he is swimming and then he takes a break to look around. And then, the next minute, he is on the shore asking himself “How did I get here?”
He has yet to appreciate the ability to tread water. He is either swimming with fins fully engaged, or he forgets to swim and lets himself be carried to shore. The world makes it hard to convince yourself that it’s okay to not be struggling towards something every day, or that achieving new rewards and new successes is part of life too. I wish Dylan could find the most comfortable water, with the nicest fish friends, and plenty of fishy food, for swimming and for treading water.
Today, I dedicated my efforts to Dylan. The best little fish in the sea.
Day 6-Monday-07 September 2020
Distance: 10.8
Route: Birdoswald Fort to Lanercost Priory
Today is Labor Day. It’s fitting because today feels like a laborious challenge. I feel like I am just getting it done today. Checking off the list.
Fitting, because today’s virtual route is more of a checklist:
Leahill Turret
Piper Sike Turret
Pike Hill Signal Tower
Banks East Turret
Hare Hill
From the Roman Fort to Hare Hill is roughly 7.5 miles. This is day six, and like the real challenge I am doing now, we’ll likely feel as if this is droning on. So, we’ll get up early and get the bulk of the work in for the morning. These are all ruins of parts of Hadrian’s Wall and other than quick stops to read the signs, we’ll make haste.
Beyond Hare Hill, we’ll go another mile to visit Lanercost Priory. Lanercost is a 13th century monastery. It is, of course, in ruins. But not the ruins of parts of Hadrian’s Wall. The brick frame of the priory is still standing and still remarkably beautiful. The famous arches are also still well preserved.
Parts of the priory were built from stone from Hadrian’s Wall and Roman etchings can be found in several places throughout the priory. Edward I made several visits to Lanercost during his various travels. But, more notably, King Robert the Bruce Scotland sacked the priory and used it as his headquarters for a few days. History says that Bruce destroyed many of the outlying building and grounds.
Today’s hike, both the virtual and the one I physically did, felt particularly laborious. I am ready to get this over with.
Dedication: To Dakota
Dakota seeks a justice that doesn’t exist. He seeks justice for every person who has been wronged by this world. Those who have been wronged because of an unfairness that the world has created. Our skin color, our faith, our failure to meet expectations, our failure to love who is chosen for us. All of those things the world will ask us to apologize for, but those apologies the world wants for things are for things we can neither explain nor do we feel are our failures. Dakota wants justice for those who are wronged.
From a very early age, Dakota wanted me to right the wrongs. It was easy at first. Make his brother apologize. Ask kids at the playground to take turns. Recount the chocolates so that everyone got an equal number. But there is only so much I can do to make the world just, and fair.
I kept thinking that Dakota would grow out of it. My family would say “He is such a serious child.” But he isn’t serious all the time. He is fun, and he is extremely witty. He is so quick, and so intelligent. What takes me forever to learn, he learns so easily. But he has never learned to accept the injustices that he cannot right. Even today, he agonizes over issues like immigration, BLM, hate crimes, marriage equality, and anti-semitism.
When your children are young, and you watch them sleep, you think about how badly you want a good world for them to grow up in. And as they grow, you acclimate yourself to the world they are given and you just hope they can be happy. Now that Dakota is grown up, and he’s a kind and compassionate man, I still want him to have a good world. I want a just and kind world for him still.
If I could give him that, I would walk to the ends of the earth to make it happen. Today is for Dakota. I wish the miles I’ve logged could change the world for him.
Day 7-Tuesday-08 September 2020
Distance: 10.37
Route: Lanercost Priory to Crosby-on-Eden
So my distance today is more than the distance we will travel on day seven. After my whining and complaining yesterday, I start this day hoping that I will even make it a few miles with my bad attitude. And, I need to shave off a few miles to finish with a short distance on day 9.
It is taking me, on average, an hour to do 4 miles of walking. If I run the morning 5k, then walk the rest of the miles, I am sending close to three hours each day getting the miles in. Three hours doesn’t seem like much, really, but it is certainly a chunk of your day.
When we hike Hadrian’s, we of course won’t be doing it that quickly. My walking miles are an average of 15-16 min miles. Hiking will be at least twice that. And, we’ll be stopping to see the sites along the wall.
We also need to decide some logistics before the trip. I will not camp. Let me say it again—I will not camp. That is not fun to me. But, it is possible to navigate the day hikes with the Hadrian’s Wall bus. You essentially take the bus to your start points and then hike to the day and take the bus back to your lodging. It will take some planning, but I am thinking we will lodge in 3 different places and use the bus for taking us to and back each three days. We’ll see.
Today’s hike from Lanercost Priory to Crosby-on-Eden is open farmland for the majority of the route. There isn’t much to see, so this will be a true hiking/walking day. Just over 8 miles, by my calculation. But, we’ll get a slow start and end the day early.
Dedication: To Gruppo
Who is Gruppo? Antonio Gruppo. I don’t really know him, but I feel certain that we would have been best friends.
I don’t know anything about Gruppo. If I had the time and energy, I’d do some searches on Ancestry. As it is, I am busy searching Jason’s family so that we have everything we need to do the dual citizenship application in Italy. I see Gruppo a lot though. I walk Calvary Cemetery off Newburgh Road a lot. Jason and I started walking the cemetery last summer because Joe Creason park was busier and busier. With the pandemic, I’ve tried to avoid the park at all cost because people don’t seem to feel the need to social distance. And no one is wearing a mask.
So, I see Gruppo. I like to think that he sees me too. He’s making sure I’m getting out here to be healthy. He’s making sure I’m sticking to my commitments. I like that about Gruppo. He’s there for his friends. He’s a serious guy, but he’s sociable. He waits for visitors down the main stretch of the cemetery entrance, but well before the group of clergy up ahead on the left. He likes the view from here because he can see out towards the Carmelite Convent and Saint Agnes church. I like the view too.
I have never given much thought to dying. I don’t like funerals. I don’t like the ritual of a funeral. Primarily, I don’t like the expectation of people to go to the coffin and look at the dead person. I don’t get that. And it bothers me. And people say at funeral homes, “He looks really good.” It makes me want to throat punch them. Death doesn’t look good, and it isn’t meant to look good and so why are we looking at it??? I know it is ritual, but I don’t like it.
I didn’t know that these walks through the cemetery last Fall with Jason were going to help me when the time came to say goodbye to my Grandma in January. Seeing the headstones, some elaborate and some simple, and seeing people coming to visit the dead, and the things that people leave at gravesites were all things that helped reinforce my rational mind. Why make such a fuss about the headstone or how often you come to visit or what you bring in remembrance?? I haven’t been to enough funerals to spend anytime outside of them thinking about death. But, these walks helped me when my Grandma died because I had time to be okay with the way I handle death rather than play a part in the ritual. So, her funeral was different. I didn’t do those ritual things, and instead I spent my time watching the living who came to say goodbye. I learn more from the living than I do from the dead.
Except Gruppo. Gruppo’s dead-silent watchfulness taught me to think about the person rather than their death. If Gruppo hadn’t died, I would never have known him. But his simple headstone and his serious image have taught me not to be fooled by the ritual of funerals and headstones. It’s the life you should remember and not the death. Thanks, Gruppo.
Day 8-Wednesday-09 September 2020
Distance: 10.08
Route: Crosby-on-Eden to Monkhill
A short day yesterday, and we’ll make up for that today. The route, just over 4 miles, from Crosby-on-Eden will take us directly to Carlisle Castle. While the castle itself wasn’t started until 1093, it is built on a site that would have been part of Hadrian’s Wall.
Archeological excavation suggests that the site was originally occupied by the Carvetii tribe. Several inscriptions lead scholars to believe the tribe occupied this area, then known a Luguvalium. The Tullie House Museum at Carlisle Castle explores life in pre-Roman times here in Cumbria and how that life changed with the Roman occupation. Excavations show where Hadrian’s Wall ran directly between the castle and Tullie House.
Also notable, in 2017, surveyors found evidence of ancient remains while doing prep work on a site for the Carlisle Cricket Club. According to The History Blog, “they unearthed entire rooms from the ancient bathhouse, intact floors, the remains of a hypocaust system, terracotta water pipes, coins, arrowheads, hair pins, painted tiles and fragments of cooking pots including one with a handsome pouring spout in the shape of a lion’s head.” The bathhouse would have been used for the elite Roman cavalry regiment, Ala Petriana, who were stationed at Uxelodunum, the largest Roman Fort on Hadrian’s Wall. The location is now know as Stanix, but little excavation has been done because the area has been overly-developed and illuminates the possibility of large scale excavation.
https://www.itv.com/news/border/2017-05-26/premier-league-roman-treasures-unearthed-in-carlisle
The castle, begun by William the Conqueror’s son in 1093, was changed and fortified many times under the direction of both English and Scottish Kings…depending on who reigned at the time. Carlisle Castle, as it is today, was a site of numerous conflicts because of its proximity to Scotland. Many of the famous, and overly romanticized, tales of Border Reivers originate from the thievery that took place here. Mary Queen of Scots was also imprisoned by her sister, Queen Elizabeth, in the tower here at Carlisle. It is a complex heritage site.
After visiting the castle and grounds, and an easy lunch, we’ll continue on to Monkhill, another 4 miles along the wall path.
Dedication: To Athletes
I am not, never wanted to be, and will never be, an athlete. I have athletic moments—like this challenge. I guess most people would say an athlete is defined by someone who competes in their sport. Others, and I am inclined to agree, would say that anyone who is dedicated to their sport is an athlete. Cheers to the athletes. I don’t have the dedication to running, walking, or any other sport that it takes to be an athlete.
I am dedicated to many things…at least for a short period of time. And I appreciate the dedication of writers that I follow who commit to writing everyday or commit to a word count everyday. Most of my dedication comes in waves. It’s often cost me time and energy to fall out of dedication.
But, athletes seem to visibly lose their foothold without the dedication. I know that my run time and distance fall when I am not consistent. I get disappointed in myself, and I swear to get back at it. Rarely do I follow through. I lack the discipline to be an athlete.
Even as I approach the last day of this challenge and I feel good and I am grateful I’ve been able to complete this, I lack the dedication of an athlete to continue. This challenge has also made me realize what a privilege it is to have the time to exercise. This challenge takes a huge chunk of my day. And on any given day, I have to give up something else in order to have this time. Particularly for women, working out and exercise time take a back seat to the many other tasks they have in a day that can’t be moved.
Jason and I recently talked about how his exercising (PT as the military calls it and he continues to call it) has taken a backseat. However, for 29 years the military made part of his day exercise time. For me, and for most women, I’ve lived a life of making choices that included taking care of others before taking care of myself. So, I neither have the dedication, the discipline, nor the habit of making time for exercising. Don’t get me wrong, he’s recently had surgery and grad school takes up some of his time and he is working part-time, so he has had to make some choices. But, after 28 years of marriage, I know him well enough to know that what has really taken a backseat is his dedication and discipline. He makes personal choices that limit his PT time. He has chosen to spend that PT time, that he has had for 60% of his life, doing something else. It is tough to maintain when the choice is yours.
So I am in awe of the runners I see out at the park doing work everyday. Or the bikers who put on those spandex outfits and funny shoes and say “I’m off for my 75 miles today.” They have made choices to protect that time to be dedicated to their sport.
I, however, will not continue with this dedication. I will make the personal choice to have one more cup of coffee in the morning, one more cup of tea in the afternoon, and have an early glass of wine in the evening. Cheers to the athletes!…I am not one.
Day 9-Thursday-10 September 2020
Distance: 8.82
Route: Monkhill to Bowness-on-Sway
Again, as is most of the west end of the wall path, there is not much to see. So we will travel the 8 and 1/2 miles along the turf wall to reach the end at Bowness-on Solway. The route is all farmland until we begin to skirt the estuary that separates England from Scotland. The land turns marshy beyond Burgh By Sands as we walk towards the Irish Sea.
The route takes us to Bowness-on-Solway and there is a pavilion to mark the end of Hadrian’s Wall path. Not much of the wall can be seen anymore, but there was an active fort in 500 AD. The town itself has a more visible history connected to the 12th century and beyond. There also exists, many many stories and tales of the conflicts with Scotland. One tale is that in the 1600s, Scotish Border Rievers stole the church bells from St. Michael’s and in their haste to leave, they dropped them in the Solway. Villagers retaliated and took two bells from towns in Scotland near Annan to replace them. The tradition for every new vicar of Annan is to request the bells back from Bowness-on-Solway and St. Michael’s Church.
Those who make the pilgrimage on Hadrian’s Wall end at Bowness-on-Solway though the real history of Hadrian’s Wall extends down the coast to Maryport when the army built a port to cross the sea. Pilgrims of the wall end by taking off the boots and socks and descend to the beach and put their feet in the water.
This is a fitting end to our hike. I think, and others in my group will most likely disagree, that this is a nice terrain for being pensive. It gives us time to think about the hardwork we’ve put into this challenge. Hopefully, the break from ordinary life and from distractions will help us all gain a little more focus.
This virtual challenge has been good for me. It has been a challenge. And not that I am at the end, I am thankful that I decided to do it and that I committed to the end. On my last day or the challenge, I think about the things that motivate me. I think back on the dedications I have made in this blog. And today’s dedication is fitting too.
Dedication: To the pills
Today’s finish was fairly easy for me. For some reason, I had anticipated a struggle today. I am, by nature, a fourth quarter team. My best work, my best writing, my best ideas all come to me at the last minute. It has been the downfall of many projects. It has also caused me sleepless nights and has gotten me up for many early mornings in an attempt to rally and finish things with a bang. For the most part, I always finish well. So, today should be no surprise. But I was prepared with a playlist to get me to the finish.
On this playlist are many great songs. But P!nk’s song “Just Like a Pill” motivates me more than any other. I don’t know what she was thinking when she wrote it, but it sounds a little like a tough relationship song. Relationships are hard—all of them. The song doesn’t make me think of romantic relationships because there have been so few of those in my life, and all of those came before the long-term one I am in now, and they are distant memories. The song makes me think of other relationships. Particularly the ones that are bumpy and complicated and highly emotional. I think of the ones that can bring you so low until you just have to cut them out.
Oddly, I am motivated by disastrous, impossible situations. I am an extremely logical and rational person. So when faced with the irrational or the hopeless, I direct my energy into productivity. While that may sound like a good thing, there are downsides to the approach. And, there is a moment you acknowledge that you just need to get away:
“I can’t stay on your life support
There’s a shortage in the switch
I can’t stay on your morphine
‘Cause it’s making me itch”
Pill is a metaphor. Today, and on many days, in my mind, the pill is my sister, Sarah. For many years, Sarah has been a pill to me. What do you say about addiction? I am not even sure I believe in it. I know it exists. I know it is real. But, I always want to believe that the human spirit endures despite the ways we physically try to dismantle it. So, to admit that addiction has won also requires me to admit that the human spirit is dead. I refuse to believe Sarah has no spirit left. So, instead of blaming the addiction, I allow myself a few times a year to call her out on all her bullshit. I start this song, and in my head I scream and cry at her. And then I run.
“Run just as fast as I can
To the middle of nowhere
To the middle of my frustrated fears
And I swear you’re just like a pill
‘Stead of making better
You keep makin’ me ill
You keep making me ill”
So today, this last day, I dedicate to all the pills. Those pills that make us angry, that make us sad, that make us sick. Those pills that motivate us to do more, to be better, to love harder. To the pills who won’t let us do it for them and who won’t do it for themselves—today is for you.
The End:
As far as virtual challenges go, this is my first one. Would I do another? Yes. It did motivate me to stick to it. I confess I did not login to see where I was on the virtual map at the end of everyday in relation to where others were. Maybe if I had used the team feature, that would have been a cool way of staying in touch with everyone.
The idea of a virtual “challenge” is interesting. I can see some people spending the money and not finishing. The cost was $29.95 for entry and this snazzy medal they send you when you complete. Most people wold be willing to throw away 30 bucks to see if they could finish. Since you are allowed to set your own pace, you could take 30 days, or more, to complete. I set the 9 day challenge because it was nearly double the distance I run/walk everyday. So it was a challenge.
Was it motivating? Yeah, I guess so. But for me, there were many factors. I had the time and wanted a challenge. We want to do the actual hike along Hadrian’s Wall in the near future (go away Covid). And, I needed the time to do something for myself in a time when I am feeling frustrated and overwhelmed with our pending move to Italy. It was good for me.
Would I recommend a virtual challenge to my friends? Depends on the friend. 🙂
Wanderlust and Cosmos 